While the west of County Clare is well known for splendid beaches, the Cliffs of Moher and Doolin, central and east Clare is more often than not just a stopping off point on the way to or from Shannon airport. Maybe a jet lagged night in Ennis on arrival or perhaps a tear soaked night in Bunratty before returning home. Sound familiar? Well, you are missing out and this month we aim to make you see the error of your ways. So without further to do here are six East Clare offers you will not be able to refuse:

1. Ennis - Walk this Way
With a population approaching 25,000, Ennis is the largest town and capital of County Clare. Mysteriously it is not famous for very much. I say mysteriously because it has one major claim to fame: it is probably the best town in Ireland for catching quality traditional Irish music. But before we get to that it is probably best to do some exploring and familiarise yourself with the lay of the land. The town centre is a warren of narrow streets and narrower alleys with many attractive bars, shops and cafes. Go on a self-guided meander or place yourself in the hands of some Ennis professionals: http://www.enniswalkingtours.com/. If all goes according to plan you should end the afternoon feeling a little wiser and surprisingly thirsty…

2. Hit the Trad Trail
Tourists go to Doolin to hear trad music, musicians come to Ennis. Unlike in Doolin where sessions are often put on purely for the entertainment of tourists, Ennis sessions are for the locals and musicians themselves. But everyone is welcome of course. Whatever the time of year, whatever night of the week, there is quality live trad music to be heard in the pubs of Ennis. It is not known as the Nashville of Irish traditional music for nothing. On a Friday night we recommend The Poet’s Corner in the Old Ground Hotel. On Saturday night the best session in town is at Paddy Quinn’s in the Market. Outside the weekend sessions move around, try any or all of these pubs: Cruises, Ciaran’s, Brogan’s, Considine’s, The Diamond, Fawl’s, Kelly’s, The Barge Rooms or O’Halloran’s.

Of course, if you happen to be in Ennis on the second weekend of November (put it in your diary for next year) you will experience the trad music mother lode that is the Ennis Trad Festival. Suffice to say not many people have only been once. A little gem of a festival, by musicians for musicians. And you of course, if you so choose.

Ennis Trad Festival: http://www.ennistradfestival.com/
Ennis pub session: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5q2EUUwELv4
Another Ennis pub session: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwf3XzJrTBk

3. Step Back in Time ..
.. 150 years – Bunratty Folk Park (in the grounds of Bunratty Castle) is a vivid re-creation of a 19th century Irish village complete with shops, post office, church and pubs populated by actors dressed in clothes of the period. Speak to them, ask them questions, watch them work. This is a fascinating park and one kids in particular really enjoy. Not to be missed!

.. 600 years – Bunratty Castle is one of the most impressive and best preserved castles in the country. It is open daily from 9am to 5.30pm - though last admission is at 4pm - and is well worth visiting. The castle keep contains an impressive collection of furniture and artwork dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. In the evenings the castle hosts medieval banquets where participants are served by castle wenches, drink goblets of mead, eat with their fingers and are entertained by dancing maidens and court jesters. How close to reality these banquets are is highly debatable, but that doesn’t stop them from being enormous fun.

- Another castle from the same period well worth a minor diversion is Knappogue. It was built by the McNamara clan in 1467. Located on the R469 east of the village of Quin, its banquet hall and walled garden are particularly impressive. Like Bunratty, Knappogue Castle hosts medieval banquets in the evening. It is also a popular venue for exclusive medieval style weddings.

- Just down the road in the village of Quin lie the ruins of Quin Abbey. The Abbey had a short useful life – from 1430 to 1541 – but what remains will still take your breath away. The setting is beautiful and the buildings have an air of resplendent calm about them that is quite striking. This is a particularly beautiful place on a sunny summer evening when the setting sun turns the Abbey walls bright pink.

.. 1,000 years – Craggaunowen is an award winning pre-historic park located east of Knappogue just off the R469. It re-creates life in Ireland in early Christian times with examples of the crannogs and ring forts common at the time. Also displayed here is the boat in which explorer Tim Severin and his four man crew crossed the Atlantic in 1976. The boat, made of leather stretched over an ash frame, is a replica of the boat in which St Brendan reputedly sailed to America way back in the 6th century, some 900 years before Columbus. By completing the crossing Severin proved that Brendan’s voyage was possible and not just an unlikely myth.

More info on these and other historical Clare sites: http://www.shannonheritage.com/

4. Visit Killaloe and Lough Derg
Lough Derg, the southern-most of the Shannon’s three large lakes, forms the eastern border of County Clare. Across the lake is Tipperary. The southern end of the lake around Killaloe is surrounded by hills and is very pretty indeed. Killaloe comes alive during the summer when anglers and boat enthusiasts descend on the town in droves. From May to September lough cruises on the Spirit of Killaloe leave from across the bridge in Ballina (the village on the Tipperary side), while boats can be rented on the Killaloe side. It is really one village connected by a narrow bridge, but neither side is going to give in and relinquish their name at this stage.

Following the road north along the west side of Lough Derg will bring you to the lovely villages of Scarriff, Mountshannon and Whitegate. These are the kind of places where you could fall into an easy routine of doing very little and be quite content never to leave again. Don’t say you weren’t warned. Mountshannon harbour is also the departure point for boats to Holy Island, a monastic settlement 2km from the shore dating from the 7th century.

Suggested walks around Lough Derg: http://walks.iwai.ie/derg/

5. Go Cruising on the Shannon
This is something to do for a week rather than a day and could be a vacation in itself. Rent a cabin cruiser from one of the many charter companies based along the river and spend your days put-putting up the Shannon from town to village, stopping off when ever and where ever the mood takes you. This is one of the most relaxing holidays possible. Since the boats’ maximum speed is 15mph you are going nowhere in a hurry. After a day your brain finally catches on and there is nothing left to do but relax and unwind. The best thing is Lough Derg and the whole length of the Shannon is dotted with little harbours and villages so each day is different and each night means a new pub in new town and a new bunch of best friends. A most excellent way to see those parts of Ireland the roads don’t get to. Highly recommended!

Shannon cruisers: http://www.emeraldstar.ie/
Also: http://www.cruise-ireland.com/

6. Go Native in Bodyke
We are often asked where to go in Ireland to get away from other tourists, to mix with and meet the locals and just blend in. No rushing around with a guidebook in one hand and a camera in the other. To be Irish for a week or two. Well, east Clare is just such a place. Tourists make it to Ennis and Killaloe perhaps, but few take time to explore the rolling hills and farmland that stretches between the two. The reason is clear – on the surface there isn’t much to see. Stay a while though and a different picture emerges: tightly knit communities built around villages such as Tulla, Feakle, Scarriff and Bodyke where life is for living and music is king. Nothing here is rushed or complicated, everything is casual. So if you’re looking to get off the main tourist trail and fancy observing Hibernicus Paddy in his natural habitat (and perhaps joining in the fun), then we highly recommend a spell in east Clare.

And what’s more, we know the perfect place to go native for a week or a month: East Clare Golf Village near the village of Bodyke just west of Scarriff. The brainchild of a few local businessmen, this self-catering Village is set among rolling hills and has East Clare championship golf course on its doorstep. But that is a by the way, the course is there if you want it, but it is by no means the main attraction. The reason people keep coming back here is the down to earth hospitality of the owners and the absolute serenity of the location. Nothing is too much trouble – they will even pick you up at Shannon airport and have your rental car waiting outside your villa the next morning. Just so you don’t have to drive after a long flight! Ideal for families; walking, cycling, horseriding and cruises on the Shannon can all be organised from here. They even run regularly scheduled guided tours of the surrounding area so driving really is optional.

Check it out. New York may be a state of mind, but East Clare is a state of being – unimaginable until you get there.

EAT HERE – CAFES AND RESTAURANTS

In Ennis

• Ennis Gourmet Store, Barrack Street
  The best sandwiches in town. Also serves great soups and salads and top notch coffee. Ample outdoor seating makes it ideal on a sunny day.

• Café Yum, Market Place
  Extensive breakfast, lunch and evening menu. All tasty and fresh.

• Café Mocha, Friary Lane
  Popular café serving soups, sandwiches and salads.

• Poet’s Corner, Old Ground Hotel
  The best pub grub in town is served in this bar attached to the hotel. There’s an all day menu and daily lunch (12 to 2.30pm) and dinner (6 to 9pm) specials. For generous servings of tasty homely food at reasonable prices the Poet’s Corner is the place.

• Town Hall, Old Ground Hotel
  Fine dining in Ennis’ most formal restaurant and probably its best. Advance booking advisable at weekends.

• O’Brien Room, Old Ground Hotel
  More traditional menu here. The place for Sunday lunch.

• Rogue, The Market (in the laneway behind Icarus)
  Combining a cocktail bar and restaurant, Rogue is new and a departure from the other more traditional restaurants in the town. But it’s not all style over substance; the food is very good too making this place very popular at the weekends when it is best to book in advance.

• Punjab, Parnell Street
  We don’t often recommend ethnic restaurants but the Punjab in Ennis deserves a mention for producing seriously tasty Indian food. Unfortunately, the décor is plain, bordering on the downright depressing, which is why most locals use this as a take out rather than dine out venue. If you are looking for take out, this is the best in town by a mile.

East Clare

• The Red Door Restaurant, Bunratty
  Newly opened, but already proving very popular. Probably the best bet for dinner in Bunratty.

• The Cherry Tree, Ballina ( Tipperary side of Killaloe)
  The best restaurant in town by far with a lovely setting only a few dozen feet from the waters of Lough Derg. Weekends book out early. http://www.cherrytreerestaurant.ie/

• An Cupan Caife, Mountshannon
  Unassuming yet cosy, friendly restaurant on the main street serving surprisingly great food. A little gem! There’s also a great little pub just up the street whose name escapes me right now, but the landlady was recently voted Clare barperson of the year (there’s a sign behind the bar). A motherly woman in her fifties (I’m guessing!) she immediately puts you at ease, making you feel like one of the locals. A rare talent indeed. She also pours a mean pint of stout.

• Earl of Thomond Restaurant, Dromoland Castle
  Thankfully you don’t have to stay at Dromoland Castle to eat in its sumptuous restaurant. Eating here is a treat – the room is magnificent and the food fabulous – but beware; while you will no doubt thoroughly enjoy the experience, it will be akin to a crash diet for your wallet. http://www.dromoland.ie/

• Flappers Restaurant, Tulla
  If you find yourself in the village of Tulla off the main road east of Ennis it will probably be because you are lost. Not to worry, the locals don’t bite and Flappers serves very decent food at friendly prices.

DRINK HERE – PUBS

In Ennis

• Cruises
  Atmospheric traditional bar with live music most nights of the week

• Poet’s Corner
  Handy meeting place. Great trad session every Friday night.

• Paddy Quinns
  Congenial and comfy locals’ spot. The place for a session on Saturday nights.

• Brogan’s
  Cosy, friendly pub in the centre of town. Weekly sessions.

• Ciaran’s
  Another likely spot for quality trad sessions

• The Barge Rooms
  Younger crowd, live music and djs. Nightclub upstairs at the weekends. Sunday afternoon session.

• Knox’s
  Young boisterous crowd. Late night bar 7 nights a week

• The Queens
  At the weekend all roads lead here. If its 2am and you’re still awake, chances are you will be shaking it on the dancefloor of this legendary, if messy, nightclub.

For something a little more unique and different (and adventurous!) try these old man pubs:

• O’Dea’s, O’Connell Street
  Quaint shop out front, even quainter pub in back. Great Guinness.
• Fawl’s, O’Connell Street
  Full of characters. Sit up to the bar and listen to the clock tick. Another good Guinness pub.

East Clare

• Durty Nelly’s, Bunratty http://www.durtynellys.ie/
  Probably one of Ireland’s most famous and iconic pubs, Durty’s is still an atmospheric place. It is not hard to imagine how it was back in 1620 - probably not much different from today except the food menu is a little more varied these days and the staff more polite. Ballad and trad sessions on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the summer.
• Pepper’s & Lena ’s, Feakle
  Two likely places for a session in this tiny east Clare village
• Cois na hAbhna (Beside the River, [ Cush na How-na]), Mountshannon
  On the main street, trad sessions at weekends during the summer
• In Killaloe/Ballina try any of the following pubs. All have live music during the summer: Molly’s, Crotty’s Courtyard, Anchor Inn. Gooser’s is the best place for bar food.
• Of course there are many other great pubs in East Clare. Every village has at least two, so wherever you find yourself be sure to stop in and say "Dia dhaoibh a chairde agus bail o Dhia ar an obair!'' (Hello friends and God bless the work!).

Please note: Clare people do their utmost to avoid exaggeration, but they also hate to let the truth get in the way of a good story. They are slow to anger but quick to run away. They pack a mean punch but rarely do. Be nice, they mean well.