Why should you never give a Kerryman a lunch break? Because it would take too long to re-train him afterwards. How do you recognise a Kerry business man? He’ll be the one wearing pin-striped Wellingtons. Almost every country has a section of the population that they like to tell jokes about. In Ireland we tell jokes about people from County Kerry. Not because they are stupid. In fact they have a reputation for the opposite. The main reason we tell jokes about them is that we are jealous. They have the cheek to call their county the Kingdom, yet there are few in Ireland who would dispute the aptness of the name. The origins of the name have been lost, but that doesn’t matter – Kerry feels like a Kingdom. Soaring mountain ranges, desolately beautiful valleys, crystal lakes and a spectacularly rugged coastline alternatively lashed and lapped by the Atlantic Ocean. Kerry has it all.
The town of Killarney, with a population of 14,000 is the most popular base for exploring the county, or at least the best known parts of it, Killarney National Park and the Ring of Kerry. The Ring of Kerry refers to a scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula. The Dingle and Beara Peninsulas are best explored from the towns of Dingle and Kenmare respectively.
Killarney has been welcoming tourists since the 18th century and the locals have become mighty good at it. It is true there are far too many souvenir shops and hardly any traditional pubs left as they all scramble for the lowest common denominator in entertainment – the sing song. But fear not, Killarney is still a very pleasant, pretty and friendly town. For Kerry people, though stupid and rather ugly – or perhaps because of it – are very welcoming indeed.
Anyhow, here’s our Authentic Killarney to do list:
Killarney National Park and the Gap of Dunloe
Killarney National Park borders the town and can be explored in a myriad of ways. There is much to see beyond the beauty of its lakes and mountains, such as Ross Castle and Muckross House. Here are some options (in order of cost):
- Purchase an Ordinance Survey map from the tourist office in Killarney and explore the park on foot at your own pace. Bring a packed lunch from Jam Café for an unforgettable picnic.
- Take a 2 hour guided walk of the park. They set off from the funeral parlour opposite St Mary’s Cathedral every morning at 11am http://www.killarneyguidedwalks.com/
- Do a bike-on-boat tour. Rent a bike and cycle to Ross Castle. Sling your bike onto a boat for a tour of the lakes before cycling through the Gap of Dunloe and returning by road to Killarney. Highly recommended. This can be organised through the Tourist Office or Gap of Dunloe Tours. http://www.gapofdunloetours.com/. Allow a full day.
- Take a jaunting car (open topped horse and carriage) to Ross Castle or the Gap of Dunloe. You will have no problem finding a jaunting car. Trust us.
- Do a combination bus, jaunting car or pony and boat tour taking in the three lakes, the Gap of Dunloe, Ross Castle and Lord Brandon’s Cottage. http://www.gapofdunloetours.com/ or http://www.derostours.com/
Do the Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry scenic drive is really a circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula. It is deservedly famous. There are fabulous ocean and mountain views almost at every turn. It is just 175km (110 miles) long and so can be easily completed in a half a day. Much better to take your time, stopping as often as possible and letting it all soak in. Here are some Authentic Ring of Kerry tips for extra enjoyment:
- Go clockwise. Head to Kenmare and along the south of the peninsula first. All the coach tours go the other way so you will meet them coming from the opposite direction instead of being stuck behind them.
- Don’t be afraid to stray. Stray off the main road that is. There are a number of roads that criss-cross the peninsula and they are well worth exploring if you have time. The main Ring route can be pretty busy during the summer, but you can escape to a giant unspoiled landscape all on your own if you are a little adventurous and are willing to do some extra miles. The route from Glencar to Sneem is particularly splendid and otherworldly.
Climb Ireland’s Highest Mountain
Carrauntoohil at just 1038m doesn’t sound very high but it still makes for a challenging climb. There are a number of routes up Carrauntoohil, the two best known are the Coomloughra Horseshoe, which also takes in the second and third highest peaks and the tough MacGillacuddy Reeks ridge trail, which nails six peaks in a day’s walk. You will need to be reasonably fit to tackle either, have proper hiking boots and gear, a good map, food, water and a favourable weather forecast. The routes are described in detail in Best Irish Walks by Josh Lynam.
Pick a Lakeside Hotel, any Lakeside Hotel
Not feeling very energetic? Want to check out the scenery but would rather not break a sweat. Or perhaps you’ve had a very energetic day but now want to relax and watch the sun go down. OK, listen up. Killarney has a number of hotels that back on to Killarney National Park, many of them luxury 5-star properties. They all make the most of their amazing surroundings and you don't need to be a resident to enjoy them. This means rear patio bars and restaurants where you can sit outside with a glass of pinot grigio in the afternoon or in the evening dine behind floor to ceiling glass as you watch the sun set over the Lakes of Killarney. Go on, you’ve had a long day, treat yourself. There are a number of hotels to choose from (don’t tell them we sent you!):
Sing the Night Away
Killarney is (in)famous for its singing pubs. Many pubs in Killarney have live music almost every night during the summer. This usually means live bands playing everything from well known Irish ballads and Beatles covers to the latest Westlife disaster. By the end of the night the whole pub is singing along with wild abandon. It is easy to look down ones nose at such ‘entertainment’ but believe me it is far easier to doff your jacket, clear your throat and join the fun.
Visit Skellig Michael
The Skellig Islands lie some 10km off the western tip of the Iveragh Puninsula. The islands are little more than two large jagged rocks jutting up out of the sea, but one, Skellig Michael, is remarkable in that it was inhabited by monks for almost 500 years beginning in the 7 th or 8 th century. The monastery they built is still remarkably well preserved and if you take the time out to visit I have no doubt this will probably be the most remarkable and affecting thing you will do while in Ireland.
Boats to Skellig Michael depart from Ballinskelligs, Portmagee and Caherdaniel each day between May and September. Departures are weather dependant though. Boats need to be booked at least a day in advance and it is a good idea to check weather conditions with the boat operator on the morning of the tour. Please note even on relatively calm days there is no guarantee you will be able to land on the island. Dress warmly and bring waterproof gear if you have it. Not suitable for those prone to seasickness or vertigo! Here are the websites of some boat operators:
http://www.skelligboats.com/
http://www.skelligsrock.com/
http://www.skelligislands.com/
More info on Skellig Michael here: http://www.sacredsites.com/europe/ireland/skellig_michael.html
Stop in Caherdaniel
Caherdaniel is the kind of place that one dreams of retiring to. This is even more the case if the sun happens to be shining while you are there. There’s a gorgeous beach, a village with some great pubs (Freddy’s, The Blind Piper) and restaurants (The Scarriff Inn, Iskeroon). There’s also an activity centre specialising in diving, hill-walking and rock climbing. And don’t forget to visit Derrynane House, which was the home of Daniel O’Connell, a towering figure in Irish history. But best of all is the spectacular landscape which, no matter where you are standing, extends from your toes to the horizon in every direction. If you’re looking for someplace to kick back and cool your jets for a couple of hours or months, Caherdaniel could just be that place.
Walk or Cycle the Kerry Way
The Kerry Way is a 213km way-marked trail that takes in the best of the Iveragh Peninsula. If hiking is your thing then taking 8 to 10 days to walk the entire Kerry Way is probably as heavenly a vacation as you are likely to encounter anywhere. The walk can be broken into 20 to 30km sections so that you hike from one village or guesthouse to the next each day. Arrangements can be made to have your luggage sent ahead to your next stop. The route follows old ‘green roads’ so you avoid traffic and have nothing but the wilds of Kerry to traverse each day.
The Ring of Kerry Cycle Route naturally must stick to paved roads, but many of these skirt the main roads favoured by most traffic. The route can be cycled in 3 to 4 days.
Walking: http://www.kerryway.net/
Cycling: http://www.killarney.ie/cycling.htm
Eating in Killarney
Casual Cafes:
- Jam, Main Street – Bakery/Deli serving delicious sandwiches, scones, quiches, salads, pastas and cakes. Eat in or take out. Ideal for picnic supplies.
- Deenagh Lodge – Thatched cottage just inside the National Park gate serving inexpensive soups, salads, sandwiches, etc. Local artists’ paintings on the wall.
- Panis Angelicus, New Street – freshly baked bread, scones and cakes, Belgian chocolates, gourmet sandwiches and great coffee. Phew!
Reliable Restaurants:
- The Cooperage, Old Market Lane – friendly, atmospheric restaurant with funky décor specialising in seafood and game.
- Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant, High Street – one of Ireland’s longest established seafood restaurants, also serves great steaks and lamb.
For that Extra Special Occasion:
- The Park Restaurant, Killarney Park Hotel – This hotel was recently voted the 7 th best luxury hotel in the world by the seasoned travellers over at tripadvisor.com. You can be sure the restaurant measures up. Piano accompanied fine dining in grand surroundings.
- Panorama Restaurant, Hotel Europe – lake and mountain views, great food. Enough said.
Drinking in Killarney
As previously noted traditional pubs are hard to come by in Killarney with many bending over backwards just a little too far to pander to tourists. That said there is fun to be had if you are in the mood:
- The Danny Man, New St – super-size pub with live music and a party atmosphere nightly during the summer.
- The Killarney Grand, Main Street – more of the same, live music, ballads and lashings of lemonade and tongue sandwiches.
- The Granary, Beech Road – more eclectic choice of music from indie to traditional in a modern, stylish bar.
- Buckleys, Arbutus Hotel – refurbished bar with trad sessions most nights of the week.
- Courtney’s. Plunkett Street – plain wood bar with DJs at the weekends, trad on Thursdays, younger crowd.
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