County Antrim is absolutely beautiful. Its coast, from the busy port of Larne to the resorts of Portrush and Portstewart, is dotted with beaches and rocky inlets. Inland, between Glenarm and Ballycastle, there are nine steep-sided glens, which descend from the inland plateau to the sea.
In addition to wonderful scenery, with forests, rivers and waterfalls, the landscape is dominated by spectacular ruins of fortresses built by Gaelic chieftains and Norman invaders. Ireland’s first inhabitants, nomadic boatmen from Scotland, are believed to have landed in this area around 7000 BC.
Among the sites of interest are the famous Giant’s Causeway and the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery at nearby Bushmills. The activities you can enjoy here include fishing, sailing, diving, horse riding, cycling and walking, or just exploring.
Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland is located in the heart of County Antrim.
Carrickfergus
The walled garrison town of Carrickfergus is eight miles (13 km) north of Belfast on the A2. The last witch trial in Ireland took place here in 1710 in what is now the Town Hall. Carrickfergus Castle is on the seafront, the largest and the best-preserved castle in the North. Built to guard Belfast Lough by the Norman John de Courcy in 1180, it was here William of Orange landed on his way to the Battle of the Boyne in 1690. The castle is worth a visit, and also has a program of interesting events.
US President Andrew Jackson’s parents emigrated from Carrickfergus in 1765. In a reconstructed cottage in nearby Boneybefore, there’s a museum. An exhibition on the US Rangers, whose first battalion was raised here, is in its grounds.
Islandmagee, north of Carrickfergus, is a narrow peninsula protecting Larne Lough. At 91 Ballylumford Road you’ll find something extraordinary – a prehistoric monument in the front garden of a private house! The dolmen (stone tomb), known to locals as the Druids’ Altar, is at least 4,000 years old.
Nine Glens of Antrim
The glens are all beautiful and enthralling, but do take great care when exploring as the roads winding through them are narrow and steep in places and can be affected by mist as you climb. They are usually pleasantly free of traffic.
Going south to north, they start with Glenarm – “the glen of the army” – nine miles (14 km) north of Larne on the A2 coast road at the picturesque village of the same name. There’s a tradition that King John (1199-1216) granted Glenarm a municipal charter, making it one of the oldest towns in Ireland. Two miles (3.2 km) farther north is Glencloy –“the glen of the hedges” – with the charming little fishing port of Carnlough at its foot.
The best known of the glens comes next, Glenariff –“arable or fertile” – which meets the sea at Waterfoot. At the foot of Glenballyemon –“Edwardstown” – and the Sea of Moyle is delightful Cushendall, known as the Capital of the Glens. This has been designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Only 16 miles (26 km) away is Scotland and its Kintyre Peninsula, made famous by the song called The Mull of Kintyre, written and performed by former Beatle Paul McCartney. Many families here are of Scottish origin.
The warrior poet Ossian, a legendary figure, is said to be buried in the next glen, Glenaan, which means “rush lights” or “colt’s foot.”
Nearby is Glencorp, running parallel to the coast road from Cushendall to Cushendun – “the glen of the slaughtered.” Both of these villages are on the sea and very pretty. The next green glen is Glendun – “of the brown river” – where the road from Cushendun crosses the River Glendun by a red stone viaduct and travels over a high plateau to Ballycastle.
East of that town is the Glenshesk – “glen of sedge” – which sweeps towards the ruined Bonamargy Friary. On the other side of Ballycastle is the last of the nine glens – Glentaisie – “Taisie of the bright sides”.
Ballycastle and Rathlin Island
Ballycastle has a very attractive seafront, with tennis courts, and a Blue Flag beach a short walk across the River Maigey. Ireland’s oldest fair, Ould Lammas, has been held here since 1606, these days on the last Monday and Tuesday of August. It’s a lively resort town, with attractive houses built in the mid-1700s. Ballypatrick Forest, five miles (eight km) southeast of Ballycastle on the A2, is a five-mile drive through peatland forest with great views of Rathlin Island and Ballycastle.
At Ballintoy, west of Ballycastle, you walk a mile along a coastal path, then – if you dare – cross the precarious Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge over an 80-foot chasm to what’s described as a peaceful little island with lovely sea views.
Do take at least a day-trip from Ballycastle to Rathlin Island , which is just over six miles (10 km) off the coast. It’s L-shaped, four miles (6.4 km) on one side, three on the other, and almost treeless, with cliffs over 200 feet high. Nowhere is it more than a mile across and, with fewer than 100 inhabitants and even fewer cars, the island is ideal for walking and cycling. Home to 175 species of birds, it’s also popular with botanists, divers and sea-anglers, and there’s lots to see, including seals sleeping on the rocks along the shore from Harbor to Mill Bay .
Giant's Causeway
Continue along the A2 from Ballycastle, passing Whitepark Bay, and you come to the Giant’s Causeway, a World Heritage Site in the care of the National Trust.
The Causeway is a cluster of black basalt pillars formed 60 million years ago by volcanic activity. It is in a National Nature Reserve and has also been designated an Area of Special Scientific Interest. It’s been attracting visitors since 1693 when it was declared one of the great natural wonders of the world by the Royal Geographical Society. The site is associated with the mythological giant Finn MacCool; it is open all year and is so popular with visitors that it’s busy even during winter.
Bushmills
The village of Bushmills, connected to the Giant’s Causeway by a charming little steam train from May to the end of September, is a good place to stop and take a walk or even stay. It’s been designated a “conservation village,” one of several that are considered dedicated to conserving their natural ecology. The village stands on the River Bush, where several mills used to process everything from spades to flax, timber to corn.
Bushmills is famous as the home of the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery, founded in 1608.
As you travel between the Giant’s Causeway towards Portrush, you come upon what must be some of the most romantic ruins, three miles (4.8 km) from the town. They’re standing on an absolutely breathtaking cliff with waves crashing below. These are the ruins of Dunluce Castle, which was the stronghold of the MacDonnells, Lords of the Isles, in the 16th century.
