Cork is the largest county in Ireland , covering roughly 3,000 square miles (7,800 square km), and within its borders there is a great variety of landscape, from the inlets and beaches of its western coast to the wooded valleys of the River Blackwater in the northeast.
Cork has a long and indented coastline and is full of historical sites worth visiting, from ruined castles and abbeys to much earlier signs of human settlement. Part of West Cork and the island of Cape Clear are a Gaeltacht (Irish speaking area) and you’ll find lots of places all where you can hear Irish music and enjoy watching people dance and sing, even joining in yourself.
The county’s capital is Cork City , the Republic of Ireland ’s second largest with a population of approximately 140,000. There are also many other interesting and lively towns and villages throughout Cork , the Rebel County.
Cork City
The name Cork comes from the Irish "Corcaigh", meaning marshland and the city was originally built on an island in the swampy estuary of the Lee River . As the city grew in size, the city expanded up the steep banks of the Lee River and much of the city is built up on the hills.
Two channels of the Lee River run through the city and there are 16 bridges within the city spanning these channels. The people of Cork are well known for their chatty nature and are reputed as being the friendliest people of Ireland . Cork is also known as the Rebel County and the people have a reputation for having a strong sense of independence and are known for their stubborn resistance. The locals (only half-jokingly) refer to the city with pride as “the real capital.”
There are a number of places worth visiting while in Cork . Start with the imposing St. Finbarr's Cathedral that was built by the renowned Victorian architect William Burges. Across the river is St Anne's Church, which houses the Shandon Bells and has a tower with two sides faced with limestone and two faced with sandstone. Cork City Gaol (city jail) has a fascinating 35-minute taped tour and also houses the National Radio Museum where you learn about Marconi and his triumph of becoming the first man to transmit a radio signal.
If you are interested in exploring the shops of Cork , you will get a sense of the traditions of the city. Patrick Street and Grand Parade make up the commercial heart of Cork . Modern chain stores stand alongside the more modest businesses, which have lined these streets for decades.
Cork has been designated European Capital of Culture for 2005, having competed against Galway , Limerick and Waterford to win the prestigious title awarded by the EU. There will be a full program of events all year, including lots of special sporting events, dramatic performances, exhibitions, recitals, street performances, film screenings, seminars, cultural exchanges, and lots more.
St. Fin Barre's Cathedral
The site of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral has been a place of worship since the early 7th century and is indeed named for its founding father St. Finbarr. The present church is one of many built on the original site and was completed in 1870 by William Burgess. This early French Gothic structure features highly ornamented, beautiful mosaic work and the richest of carvings.
Burgess was obsessed with all things medieval and this is evidenced by the many gargoyles, birds, beast and the rose-window. Inside, the cathedral consists of a nave, two side aisles, a beautiful choir balcony and north and south transepts. The latter houses a cannonball launched during the siege of 1690 and hanging from the ceiling here is the Roll of Honor of parishioners who perished during World War I.
The doorway in the boundary wall on Deane Street dates from 1600. The cathedral is built from Cork limestone, the interior from bath stone and the walls are lined with red Cork marble.
Shandon Steeple
The Shandon Steeple is arguably Cork 's most famous landmark. Shandon or Sean Dun means 'Old Fort' and in this case fort is indeed the correct term as the Steeple boasts seven-foot thick walls and stands at 170 ft. The present "pepper-pot' shaped tower was built in 1722 using sandstone from the old Shandon Castle and limestone from the Franciscan Abbey on North Mall. The sandstone faces sandstone country to the north and east while the limestone faces those regions to the south and west. The red and white of the structure has given its colors to the jerseys of the Cork hurling and football teams.
Atop the tower sits a golden weather-vane in the shape of a salmon known among locals as "The Goldy Fish"! Within the tower are housed the famous Bells of Shandon, cast in Gloucester ( England ) in 1750. They weigh over six tons and may be rung by visitors for a modest fee. On the tower is the clock known as "The Four-Faced Liar", owing to the four clock-faces frequently showing different times!!
The clock was gifted to the Mayor in 1847 and weighs in excess of two and a half tons. Inscribed on the clock are the following words of wisdom:
"Passengers measure your time;
For time is the measure of your being"
Blarney Castle & Blarney Stone
Blarney , six miles (10 km) northwest of Cork City , must be one of the most famous of all towns in Ireland , especially among North Americans, because of the Blarney Stone, which is said to give those who kiss it the “gift of the blarney” or “the gab.” That means the ability to be as articulate as most of the Irish.
To kiss the stone you have to climb up to the top of the ruined Blarney Castle and be suspended over a hole. It’s fun, but not for the unfit or fainthearted, as climbing the narrow and winding stone stairs is difficult if you are large, and can be slippery, especially when descending. Men hold onto you as you are suspended to kiss the stone, and they do wipe it after each person, but if you worry about hygiene you won’t like the experience.
Visitors to Ireland , especially from North America , the UK and Australia , have been kissing the stone since the 19th century, when someone thought up Ireland ’s first tourist attraction. It has never really caught on with visitors from Europe.
Cobh
Cobh is a picturesque town situated on Great Island in Cork Harbor just south of Cork City . The island is connected to mainland Ireland by both rail and road. Cobh has a relatively recent history, it was established in 1750, but has played an important role in Ireland 's history. The first steam ship to sail from Ireland to England left Cobh harbor in 1821, and in 1839, the first steam ship to cross the Atlantic left from Cobh . In 1849, the name of the town was changed to Queenstown in honor of Queen Victoria who had visited Ireland that year. In 1922, after the Republic of Ireland 's independence from England , the town's name was changed back to its original name of Cobh .
Cobh is famed for being the last port of call for the ill-fated Titanic, which sank after striking an iceberg on Sunday April 14, 1912 . Ironically, when the Titanic stopped here to pick up a few passengers (and drop off 9 lucky people), they also picked up a huge shipment of ice!
From 1848 to 1950, over six million Irishmen and women emigrated from Ireland and over 2.5 million of these departed from Cobh , making Cobh the single most important port of emigration in Ireland . During the famine years between 1845 and 1851 over 2 million people emigrated from Ireland , decreasing the country's population by half. Many of those emigrating left from Cobh and sailed to America to start a new life. You can find out more about Cobh 's role in Irish emigration at the fascinating "Queenstown Story" visitor attraction at the Cobh railway station. Highly recommended!
Today, Cobh is a pleasant town with streets that climb up the steep slope of a hill to the top where the impressive St. Coleman's Cathedral stands. There are many wonderful restaurants to choose from, many serving fresh seafood dishes. There are also a variety of lively pubs in Cobh where you can escape from the brisk air and enjoy some traditional Irish music.
Kinsale
Kinsale is 16 miles (26 km) west of the city; it’s known as “the gourmet capital of Ireland ” for the number of great places to dine in the town. The Good Food Circle has been organizing a Gourmet Festival here every autumn for over 25 years.
A charming town, its narrow streets are steeped in history and its harbor is always full of boats. Visit the museum housed in the French Prison or, just outside the town, the star-shaped Charles Fort with its spectacular views, where you will learn about the country’s history.
Garnish Island
Garnish Island , off Glengarifff, is unique – the entire island is a garden. Also known as Garinish and Ilnacullin, its 37 acres were transformed by former owner Anna Bryce and Harold Peto, an architect and garden designer, into a magical place. You can spend hours wandering its little paths that climb through the trees to a Martello Tower . Anna Bryce left the island to the Irish nation in her will when she died in 1953.
You usually see seals basking on the rocks as you make the short crossing from Glengarifff, and from the island there are wonderful views of the surrounding area. Even if you have no particular interest in gardens, you’ll enjoy a visit.
West Cork
You could easily spend days or weeks exploring West Cork , wandering up and down its lovely quiet roads. Although popular, it is never crowded like Kerry, and there are always delightful places to discover. Among personal favorites are Schull, Sherkin Island , Glandore, and Mizen Head.
There are also many interesting and picturesque towns to explore including Skibbereen, Clonakilty and Bantry. There are many beautiful beaches, hidden coves and quaint villages along Cork ’s coast. Among them the beach at Inchydoney and the delightful fishing village of Courtmacsharry are well worth a visit.
The Beara Peninsula is perhaps Ireland ’s most sparsely populated area; its bleak but beautiful landscape is a haven for hill walkers and nature enthusiasts.
