Fermanagh is dominated by Lough Erne, which is 50 miles (80 km) long from one end to the other and is divided in two. Lough Erne is actually two lakes – Lower and Upper – joined by the meandering River Erne. The county capital, Enniskillen, stands on the bank of the river between the two lakes. There are many little wooded islands on the loughs, with evidence of ancient cultures and ruins from the Early Christian era.
The county’s landscape is a patchwork of gentle rolling hills and fertile fields dotted with woods and forests. Yet what you’re most aware of as you walk, cycle or drive around, are its lakes and rivers.
In addition to Lough Erne, on the county’s western boundary are Upper and Lower Lough Macnean, with Belcoo between them, and Lough Melvin in its northwestern corner. More than a third of the county lies under water.
There’s a lot to see and do, with historic sites, stately homes, museums and other attractions to visit, plus activities such as cycling, walking and playing golf. The county’s ancient heritage is revealed on the islands in its lakes and particularly in the Burren area near Belcoo, which has lots of archaeological monuments, including portal and wedge tombs and a court tomb. On Boa Island , there are two Celtic Janus (two-faced) statues, probably from the first century AD.
The Erne River and Lake System has been joined in recent years to the River Shannon by the Shannon-Erne Waterway, and is the perfect destination for anglers and those who enjoy cruising, canoeing or windsurfing. Looking at a map, it seems strange that Lower Lough Erne is above Upper, but they’re named in relation to the sea.
Fermanagh’s main towns are Irvinestown, Lisnaskea and Roslea, and the largest is Enniskillen, the county capital.
Enniskillen
Enniskillen is in the middle of the county, on an island in the River Erne, between Upper and Lower Lough Erne. The town developed around the castle, which dates back to the 15th century. This was once the stronghold of the Maguire chieftains, whose navy of 1,500 boats, stationed at Enniskillen Castle and on Hare Island , patrolled the lakes.
Enniskillen became a garrison town when granted to Sir William Cole, who enlarged the castle and built the lovely Water Gate, which looks best seen from the Lough. It was the most important of a ring of castles built by the planters around the Lough to control the waterway; the others included Portora – its ruins are in the grounds of the Portora Royal School , founded by James I in 1608. Famous students include writers Oscar Wilde (1854-1900) and Samuel Beckett (1905-1989).
The town has a long and winding main street that keeps changing its name and off it there are fascinating medieval lanes. The tower of St. MacCartan ’s Church of Ireland Cathedral , all that survives from a 17th-century church, has a bell cast from cannon used in the Battle of the Boyne . Facing it is the tall and narrow St. Michael’s Catholic Church.
In the lobby of the town hall there’s a brass plate memorial to Captain Oates of the 6th Inniskilling Dragoons, an icon of self-sacrifice because, ill and unable to move at the pace of the rest of the party, he walked out into a blizzard and perished during Scott’s return from reaching the South Pole in 1912, rather than slow their progress.
The town bustles with life and commerce, and attracts visitors interested in fishing, boating and other activities. There are lots of bait and tackle shops and gift shops selling the distinctive cream-colored pottery made nearby at Belleek.
Dominating the skyline is Enniskillen Castle , with its picturesque location on the water. It was a Maguire fort, Plantation castle and, from the late 18th century, artillery barracks. Its 15th-century keep houses the Fermanagh County Museum and the museum of two regiments, the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers and the Dragoons.
The Buttermarket , built in 1835 in the Boston Quarter as a marketplace for the county’s dairy produce, had been derelict for years but is now restored and houses the Enniskillen Craft and Design Centre. You can watch craftspeople at work or buy original items. It’s a lovely place to wander around.
Castle Coole
Castle Coole , on the A4 just outside Enniskillen, is a lovely place for a walk at any time of the year, and there’s no charge in winter. As you walk up the drive you pass golfers on the Enniskillen Club course.
It’s a National Trust property, and the house is magnificent, standing above its landscaped parkland. James Wyatt designed it in the 18th century, and it has a beautiful Regency interior, including a bedroom prepared for a visit by the King in 1821. You can walk though the tunnel used by the servants, and see the memorable stable-yard and coaches.
