It’s Hallowe’en, the time I go batty if I haven’t done a nice long multi-day through-hike yet! England is my go-to country for these, and for a previous year’s Hallowe’en I picked the Norfolk Coast Path. Little did I know I would encounter Ghost Ships – and enjoy them…
Ghost Ship…
Rambling about rambling
England is a paradise for “ramblers”, their word for walkers and hikers. Footpaths and long-distance routes crisscross the country, for all ages and abilities to enjoy, with right-of-way laws protecting this national treasure.
An October Monday: walking is a national pastime in England
Jewels in the crown
The National Trails make for 15 jewels in England’s huge walking options crown. Over the years, I’ve done a handful of NTs, and my latest addition is the Norfolk Coast Path.
National Trail acorn logo sign
The hills are Aleve
Walking long stretches in flat land is one thing, but many National Trails include lots of hillwalking. Going up and down elevation can be hard on the legs and back when backpacking, aging, or as in my case, both! Be prepared and take some Aleve or equivalent along to ease the burden.
A stroll for a mole
Awesomely, there is a National Trail for all abilities, and the Norfolk Coast Path is as flat a hike as can be. And the occasional dune is more of a molehill than a mountain. Plus, it’s only 47 miles end to end, with towns, tea spots, cafés, restaurants, pubs and lodging options.
Hop on the bus, hop on the bus
And I’m gonna take you for a ride. Always loved that Nick Hall song. And hopping on the bus along the Norfolk Coast Path is easy, because they have the CoastHopper! Its frequent runs enable ramblers to stay in one spot and do day segments with easy returns back to their lodging.
Feet of accomplishment
The CoastHopper can also save your day if you need to skip a part for some reason. One such reason can be a foot malfunction, which happened to me this time! Make it as hard or easy as you like; it’s great to have options.
Paths and Peddars
My somewhat abbreviated version of the Norfolk Coast Path started in Hunstanton, on the coast. The “official” National Trail combines the Norfolk Coast Path with the Peddars Way. The latter runs from inland Knettishhall Heath Country Park up to Hunstanton. The Norfolk Coast Path proper ends in the town of Cromer, which has a railway station.
Skipping the Roman-tic bit
Having a “Hadrianic” tic and fascinated by Roman Britain, I’d have loved to complete both and feel the history of the old Roman roads. With my time being short, I just went coastal! The Roman bit has been here for some 2,000 years, and with that, I figured the Peddars Way will be there for me on a next occasion.
Umbrella policy
Walking in England means being prepared for any weather. My Norfolk Coast Path adventure started right before Hallowe’en. This season is not known for general loveliness! Rains on occasion, heavy at times but short-lived. Fierce winds pretty much all the time, but no match for my solid hiking jacket and they actually dried my kit very quickly.
Rays over the greys
Even better, the sun kindly decided to grace me with lots of welcome rays in between these spells, making for rewarding views over some fifty shades of grey of the North Sea.
Planes, trains and automobiles – and buses
Arriving at Heathrow, I hoisted my backpack off the luggage belt and went down to take the fast non-stop Heathrow Express to Paddington. After greeting the bear and minding the gap, I hopped on the Tube to King’s Cross – home of Harry Potter’s Platform 9 ¾ – and then rode a local train to King’s Lynn. From there, you can take the Coasthopper or Traveline Bus to Hunstanton. Or, if after hours like I was, grab a taxi, if there is one, for the modest ride.
Shelter in the Shellbrooke
Shellbrooke, view towards the sea Path with WW1 Memorial and poppies a block from the Shellbrooke
My first lodgings were in Hunstanton at the excellent Shellbrooke Guesthouse and Restaurant. It’s on Cliff Terrace, a cool spot just a block from the coast and Path. The day had been long and tiring, what with flying overnight, and I decided to stay in for dinner.
Good Mornay
The Shellbrooke dining room Shellbrooke Fish Mornay dinner
It turned out to be a good move: the Shellbrooke Fish Mornay meal was excellent! Owner Mark was a pleasure to talk with and he provided lots of tips and stories.
Showering Shellbrooke with praise
My room was comfortable, the bed provided a solid night’s sleep, and the shower was complete with decent shampoos and stuff, a rarity in many a B&B. A perfect stay to rest up and get ready for the long walk tomorrow.
Full of attractions
In the morning, I woke up timely, alerted by the wonderful aroma of bacon and other breakfast delights. I’d fly over to England just for the Full Breakfast!
Full English minus beans and to-mah-to
Bacon beats beans
Love that thick bacon with fried eggs, mushrooms and black and white pudding. Beans? Not so much, but they can be tasty just by themselves on toast.
Back to basics
I had planned for a relatively short 4 days hiking with 3 overnights. Normally that would mean a basic and lightweight backpack, but this walk was only the start of a multi-week UK trip. I had brought a lot of extra stuff, making the pack quite heavy. What to do?
The Handy Hiker’s Helper
Get someone else to do the heavy lifting! I had found what I needed at HikeHelp and booked them in advance. Owner Andrew was as helpful as their name implies, providing an affordable and reliable transfer service: recommended! Check them out on Facebook too.
Hunstanton to Burnham Market
Properly fueled up, I walked the aforementioned one block up to the coast, and veered right along the beginning of the Norfolk Coast Path.
Cliff notes
The “path” forward Cliffs and fallen rock
Right out of Hunstanton, the first spectacle came in view: the Hunstanton Cliffs. Reminiscent of the intro to ITV’s “Broadchurch”, but those cliffs were actually filmed at West Bay, Dorset.
Get crackin’
Erosion and tree roots are causing cracks in the Cliffs, resulting in rock-slides down to the beach.
Walkers along the Cliffs Cracks and rock slides
Didn’t seem to bother a man playing with his dog very much. And the serious winds encouraged an adventurous parasailer to try his luck.
Man with dog at the Cliffs Parasailer fighting the winds at the Cliffs
Beaches and birds
Beach with razor clam shells and walkers Boats in low tide gulley Old boathouse and boats in the mud Pine cones in trees against pretty skies Protective fencing along the dunes Well-maintained easy stretch of the NCP
Walking along, the vast beach vistas were mostly just for me to enjoy, with only the occasional walkers coming the other way.
Beach huts east of Hunstanton Colorful beach huts Beach hut blue with tiny solar panel
A cluster of colorful beach huts brightened up the views near the Ancient Mariner Inn.
Ancient Mariner Inn and Restaurant Ancient Mariner pavillion
Who you gonna trust
The Norfolk Wildlife Trust protects this landscape of vulnerable dunes, grasslands, water and birds.
Norfolk Wildlife Trust wetlands area Holme Dunes placard, love reading these Shorebirds have long beaks for a reason Wipe your feet back at the nest, shorebird!
There must be ponies too, per a I sign I walked by, but alas, there were none to be seen.
Dinnae see them but cool nonetheless Pay attention to the signs
Home schooling
Walking into the village of Thornham, I admired their impressive town signs, coming and going.
Thornham entry sign front Thornham entry sign back
Want to live here? The Old School House was for sale! I was quite peckish by now and saw the Checkers Inn, but it did not offer lunch at this time.
Chequers Inn, Thornham Typical red brick white pebbles cottage This old Thornham school is for sale
More miles to a meal
Walking on a couple of miles and entering the village of Brancaster, I savored more rewarding views. St. Mary’s meant I had reached the town.
St. Mary’s, Brancaster WW1 Memorial at St. Mary’s, Brancaster
A pint and a pumpkin
Brancaster did provide a lunch option. The Ship Hotel served a nutritious Ploughman’s with a pleasant pint.
Lunch break at the Ship, Brancaster Fun ale name at the Ship Hotel
A carved pumpkin sat on the bar. Homemade pumpkin pie for dessert? Alas, it was just decoration for tomorrow’s Hallowe’en.
My lunch corner, day before Hallowe’en
Many a mile of milling
Picturesque old boat in reflecting water Boats with tide coming in Fascinating water and mud gullies give-and-take Seagull on boat in front of crab pots Boat prow shelter with fun sign inside; flood line markings Ladies, beware the pitfalls of marriage!
The Norfolk Coast Path continued on along the water, miles of boats, gullies and shorebirds, then curved inland some. Unexpectedly, sitting in this flat land with lots of water under grey and windy skies, I spotted a windmill.
The NCP curving inland Brancaster Staithe Quay National Trust placard Burnham Overy Staithe windmill in the distance
I started looking for tulips and wooden shoes! I wonder if they speak Dutch around here?
Flat-out failure
My overnight location was in Burnham Market. Emphasis on “night”! The walk from Hunstanton to that overnight was about 18 miles: a solid amount but not extreme.
Birds fill the skies at sunset Flock of birds at sunset Ducking down for the night
Yet, it took me a couple hours more than expected. The route was flat and easy but maybe I stopped too long and too often for the views, too many detours for pictures or leisurely lunch breaks….
Left in the dark on the right
The Nelson Country Inn was about a mile off the Norfolk Coast Path proper. That final mile had no path or sidewalk and I had to walk on the actual road. Plus it was dark by now too, with short daylight this time of year.
Didn’t plan for short daylight very well… Entering Burnham Market – if that car doesn’t hit me first! Nelson Inn, my home for the night
Stayin’ alive, stayin’ alive
Having learned from previous mishaps, I always carry a flashlight along. It enabled me to light the route and signal “walker on the road” to oncoming traffic. And the safest is to walk on the right side of the road, as they drive on the left of course.
Ghost Ship ahoy!
As Nelson’s came in sight, my left foot started protesting. Time to rest! The Nelson has a restaurant, which meant I wouldn’t have to go out again for food. And food on the coast means good seafood!
Battle of the Nile Menu, Nelson Inn window
The Nelson bar and restaurant Haddock and seafood risotto dinner A nice cuppa for dessert!
I had a tasty meal of fresh Haddock & Seafood Risotto. And here, at the Nelson, befitting the Hallowe’en timing, I spotted my first … wait for iiiit … Ghost Ship!
Adnams and Eve
OK, so this is not a true Hallowe’en Eve Ghost story! Ghost Ship is actually a tasty ale, brewed by Adnams of Southwold, Sussex.
Ghost Ship ahoy
As their website description goes, Ghost Ship is a “Hauntingly good pale ale, full of citrus and biscuit aromas with a spookily hoppy bite”. Perfect for Hallowe’en! It comes in at a modest 4.5% ABV and for folks driving after an evening out, they now make a Ghost Ship 0.5% ABV too.
Setting sail again soon
The successful rehydration was followed by another good night’s sleep. I promised myself to be on the lookout for more Ghost Ships over the coming days!
Burnham Market to Blakeney
Nelson Country Inn in the morning
The Nelson’s excellent Full English breakfast put me in a great mood for today’s stretch. A promising day indeed, under sunny skies once again.
Beach buzz
Round tower of St. Margaret’s Outskirts of Burnham Market NCP sign and windmill Burnham Overy Staithe windmill from the rear fields
Neat sights along the Norfolk Coast Path this morning included Saint Margaret’s Church and a welcome daytime view of Burnham Overy Staithe windmill, followed by lots of beach, sea and birds.
Boats and car at low-tide harbor Seagull buzzing an egret Long empty stretch of beach coming up
A shore thing
The Norfolk Coast Path route is quite straightforward: simply walk down the coast! A map is hardly needed, but I do like keeping an eye on distance and timing, using my fave MotionX iPhone GPS app.
A watery walk!
The map is still fun to check: the huge tidal swings along the wide slope of beach made it look as if I walked a few miles through water!
Sea horses on the beach
Beach horseback riders near Holkham Galloping by in the rain
A spell of rain arrived late morning, with the usual strong winds making it a kind of horizontal onslaught. However, the spell was brief, and enlivened by seeing horseback riders gallop along the beach, having fun despite the rain.
Footloose but not fancy-free
Alas, approaching the interestingly named town of Wells-next-the-Sea, I developed some foot pain: maybe I should not have ignored that niggling protest yesterday! These things happen on hikes, and usually there’s no alternative to soldiering on. But this time, I had options!
Dropping the other shoe too
I limped into the Beach Café on the edge of town, and swapped my loyal hiking boots out for back-up sneakers. Good thing I had those along in my little daypack! Old hiker’s rule: carry backup shoes.
Beach Cafe with doggie bar Wells-next-the-Sea harbor
Espresso and a dog
Sneakers are not made for demanding hikes, but fine on this paved and flat Path segment. Shoe switch done, I had a chuckle at the Café’s “Unattended kids” sign before heading out again.
Fun “Mind the kids” sign
Hopping to it
I walked a little further into Wells-next-the-Sea proper. Over a belated lunch at French’s Fish & Chips, I figured I probably shouldn’t force my foot unnecessarily.
Wells harbor with ducks Local chippie in Wells-next-the-sea Fish & Chips at French’s
Plus, it was mid afternoon by now. I decided to play it safe and hopped on that CoastHopper bus to Blakeney instead.
From Ghost Ship to Pancake Ship
Fun fact: do you remember that “Norfolk looks Dutch” bit from earlier? There may be something to it! Wells-next-the-Sea boasted a Traditional Dutch Pancakes ship restaurant, like you often see in The Netherlands, moored right along the main drag.
Dutch pancakes ship in Wells!
Hold your horses in Blakeney
Walking from the CoastHopper bus stop into town, I arrived at The White Horse in Blakeney in daylight, for a change, yay. It’s a nice small local hotel with a restaurant.
White Horse on Main Street
And, with today actually being Hallowe’en day, their framed poster of the Adnams “Ghost Ship” felt perfect.
The Hallowe’en theme continues… Ghost Ship ale, very tasty
Tying the knot
My room was named the “Spliced Cringle”, after a sailor’s knot: who knew! A befitting name, as I was hoping to get the knots out of my still somewhat protesting foot overnight.
My room’s name: a sailor’s knot! White Horse sailors’ knots Lovely amenity shelf in the room
Roll call
After freshening up a bit, I went to the restaurant. Plopped down with a sigh and enjoyed a tasty sausage roll appetizer followed by a fresh seafood and crayfish Caesar salad. And yes, I sank a few more Ghost Ships too.
The Conservatory at the White Horse Guest Lounge Sausage roll and side salad appetizer Main course: crayfish and seafood caesar salad
Blakeney to Sheringham
No rain today, my foot pain’s gone away, the weather was just great, I didn’t start out late! Apologies for that abomination to Herman’s Hermits “No Milk Today”, a catchy Brit pop song from 1966.
The ruins of Blakeney Guildhall
On the way out, I had a look at the Blakeney Medieval Guild Hall ruins near the White Horse.
Picking pebbles
Pondering the attractions of this Trail Geese and boats Disintegrating boat River Glaven reroute info board
Today, the Norfolk Coast Path offered a choice between a more inland course over some dunes or hiking over the actual but pebbles-covered beach. I went beach so I could walk right along the North Sea.
Beach, walkers, dogs
A moving experience
I had stored my big boots in the HikeHelp-transferred backpack in favor of those backup sneakers. Pebbles move underfoot and reduce walking ease and speed, but shoes and feet cooperated and it all went fine. A relief, as this was my final full day!
Pebble beach with fishermen These fishermen are serious
A tricky treat
This segment of the route boasts tons of birds, on the beach, and in and above the water. And, a seal popped its head above the water, just as I had the camera in my hand!
Lucky shot of a surfacing seal!
Seals are not that common a sight here, and when they show, it’s short and quick. A lucky shot!
Goodness, more mills
Memorial bench near Cley Picnic Fayre Deli in Cley
Cley-next-the-Sea is yet another awesomely-named village. The Path winds prettily into the village, which is famous for a gorgeous windmill. And Cley Windmill operates!
Approaching Cley town and windmill
However, it’s not running as an actual mill. Instead, Cley Windmill is a unique B&B, with a restaurant and self-catering lodging too. Great wedding spot!
B&B lodging under the windmill
Beaches and bunkers to beat back baddies
One thing you can’t help but notice along the Norfolk Coast Path: reminders of how real and close World War II was for this area. Or WW I for that matter.
WW2 pillbox right on the beach Rear entrance Inside the structure Air defence remains More WW2 remnants washing into the sea WW2 bunker opening
Here, along the Norfolk coast, the beaches and dunes are dotted with bunkers and remains of fortifications.
Poppy quiz
As the calendar had inched into November now, houses and villages began to show poppies. Why? In the UK, the poppy symbolizes remembering and thanking those that sacrificed their life for us all in World War I, II and more. I spotted a lone “Lest We Forget” flag at a farmhouse.
Lest We Forget: the UK’s WW1 and beyond poppy motto
Remembrance Day is never far away
World War I was devastating for Britain – perhaps even more gruelingly so than WW II – but the heroes of these and subsequent wars can count on being remembered and honored forever, especially in an area like Norfolk. November 11 is Remembrance Day: poppies everywhere will remind us all to be eternally grateful.
Flights of fancy
These bunkers and other ruins do create a mood! When hearing an airplane overhead, you look up, not knowing what to expect. Spitfire? Messerschmitt? V1 or V2? Ahh, it’s the good old RAF! Tally-ho, fly boys!
The RAF remains alert I sure HOPE it’s the RAF! Birds inspired by the RAF or vice versa? Military area: get in da choppah now!
Yes, all boys in those long-gone days but today’s RAF is appropriately liberated. I loved reading the “Biggles” RAF and other adventures in my long-gone growing-up days.
Inclined to go to Sheringham
Impressive cliffs near Weybourne Dune-top bunker near Weybourne Bunker with brick patching View from the bunker top
The final stretch! After days of flatness, it was nice to have a little bit of up and down. At Weybourne, the Path runs up over some bunkers dug into the cliffs, followed by expansive views over Sheringham’s Golf Links.
Mild uphill after miles of flatnessSheringham Golf Links Unstable cliffs warning sign
Edwardian Elegance at Burlington Berties
I’d been looking forward to tonight’s lodging in “Burlington Berties”, a lovely “Roaring Twenties” kind of name.
Nice cars at the upscale Burlington Berties B&B!
Berties is a charming boutique Guesthouse with just 9 rooms, all individually named and styled. My room was large, luxurious and very quiet, with a nice garden view, and the most comfortable bed of the trip to date.
Garden view from my room at Berties Pleasant lounge at Berties
Pillow talk
Berties’ lounge was small and classic English with comfy old-fashioned Men’s Club style leather chairs. Loved the Union Jack cushions! This pleasant spot also had an Honor Bar, stocked with – you see this coming, right? – more Ghost Ships.
Ghost Ship in Berties lounge chair
Throw me a LaBone
No restaurant, per my pre-research, and with the foot issue gone, I strolled over to the Labone Indian restaurant. Loved their excellent Chicken Achaar, accompanied by some Kingfishers. No Ghost Ships in India I guess but Kingfishers are adorable birds.
The breakfast club
Berties is justifiably proud The full breakfast monty on display
Burlington Berties breakfast was as award-winning as it was cracked up to be! Man do I love a good breakfast. And obviously, the few other guests around me were enjoying the plethora of provisions as much as I was.
Very elegant toast rack Cereals and colds setup Artistic breakfast
Fun fact: Berties provides reading glasses with their menu! More often than not, we half-awake readers-dependent travelers leave them in the room. Quite the thoughtful touch!
Breakfast served with reading glasses!
Pondering the plan
Over Berties morning feast, I recalculated my timing and decided to not hike the Norfolk Coast Path’s remaining segment. It wasn’t going to be all that different from what I’d already seen, and with weather changes coming, I’d be hard-pressed to make my pre-booked non-changeable train out of Cromer. Plus, for the final bit, I’d need to carry my Big Backpack!
Train with trainers
So, I again put on my sneakers (“trainers” in English English), hoisted my HikeHelp-delivered backpack and trotted over to Sheringham station. I then rode a local train to Cromer to catch my train up to Scotland next.
Boarding the train in Sheringham
The Coast with the most
Thank you National Trails for providing this lovely coastal route. Nice and quiet, with very few walkers this time of year. Time to contemplate life while listening to bird song and watching gulls wheel over the ever-ominous North Sea. Many memorable miles and meals – and Ghost Ships, a perfect combination! Next time in Norfolk, the Peddars Way, but for now, this (Ghost) Ship has sailed!
DISCLAIMER
My travel blog “Con’s Corner” takes a sometimes irreverent look at 4+ decades of travel in the British Isles. My trips are real: no months of staging the perfect photo, no waiting for the perfect weather, no Photoshopping, no promo story in exchange for a freebie: I pay full fare. It’s true travel. It’s what you’d experience yourselves. Note that the company does not necessarily share my opinions and views. In fact, they may be shaking their heads. The photography is mine (except where credited as noted), as are all typos, grammatical errors, and odd expressions. It’s a blog, people, not literature! I also accept full responsibility for any puns, varying on a scale from hilarious to ouch… Be all that as it may, I intend to keep at it until I get it right. Con Jager, Santa Rosa, USA.
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